How to Figure Out T-Shirt Sizes Without Losing Your Mind

Understanding T-Shirt Measurements

The Two Measurements You Usually Get

Most t-shirt size charts provide at least the width and length. Even though t-shirts are made for 3D humans, they are measured lying flat – just one reason figuring out t-shirt sizes is so hard.

Picture the t-shirt lying flat with its sleeves out, like it’s a cheerleader making a “T” shape. (Sidenote: Don’t forget to buy t-shirts for your pickleball cheerleaders.) Here’s where width and length are measured:

Width

The width is measured from armpit to armpit. Double the width to get the full chest circumference, e.g. if the width is 22” armpit to armpit, it’s 44” all the way round.

Width usually increases in increments of 2” between sizes. So if a large shirt is 22” wide (44” round), the XL will be 24” wide, for a total chest measurement of 48”. However, as you’ll see later, in the Wild West of t-shirt sizing, that’s more like a guideline than a rule.

Shirt Length

Shirt length is measured from the back of the neck to the hem. It might be the same for all sizes, or it might increase as the width increases, typically by 0.5” to 1” — or a totally different number, because clothing sizes are a lawless land!

More Measurements You Might Get

An especially informative t-shirt provider might even give you some extra measurements. Here are the ones you’re most likely to see:

Neck Width

The width of the collar, including the ribbing, measured at the back. Not to be confused with neck circumference, which would probably be more useful.

Shoulder Width

The distance from the edge of the ribbed neckband to the point where the sleeve starts.

Sleeve Length

Usually measured along the top of your bicep, from the point where the sleeve meets the shoulder to the end of the cuff.

Sleeve Width/Diameter/Opening

Different ways to describe the size of the opening of the sleeve at the cuff.

How T-Shirts Fit

Since a t-shirt is a relatively simple garment, the fit basically comes down to the cut – the shape of the t-shirt – and how tight or loose the t-shirt is. Fit is easier to gauge when you can try the shirt on, but here’s how to picture it when you’re working from a size chart.

For a Classic Fit: Shirt is 4”-6” Bigger Than Body Circumference

The most popular t-shirt style, a classic fit should fit close enough that you don’t have a lot of excess material (2” to 3” on each side) but not so tight that it’s constricting you. Length-wise, unless it’s a cropped tee, it should end mid-fly. It will either be cut straight from chest to hem (sometimes called a relaxed fit or a loose fit) or slightly tapered towards the hem (a slim fit).

For an Oversized Fit: 8”-10” Bigger Than Body Circumference

Your t-shirt is truly oversized if you can pinch 4” to 5” of extra material on each side. This style is designed to hang loose, with a straight, boxy cut, and usually features longer, wider sleeves than your classic slim fit. It’s sometimes cropped or extra long.

In case you’re wondering, yes, you can get an oversized fit by buying a classic fit a few sizes too big – but this might put the shoulder seams in the wrong place. The shoulder seam of an oversized t-shirt should still sit at the point where your arm meets your shoulder. That is, unless it’s a drop shoulder style, in which the seam should fall at least 2” past the shoulder.

For a Tight Fit: Shirt is 2” Bigger Than Body Circumference (or Less)

On the other end of the spectrum is the tight-fitting t-shirt. It may look too small on the hanger for the size it claims to fit, but trust the process – and check the material content for spandex, elastane, or Lycra (three names for the same synthetic fiber that’s added to cotton to give it stretch.)

Tight shirts tend to taper more dramatically than classic slim fits. Styles designed for men start wider at the chest then taper to the hips, while styles for women are hourglass-shaped, starting wider at the chest, narrowing to the waist, then widening again over the hips.

Ordering T-Shirts for Other People

OK, so now you know what different t-shirt styles look like, you can make an informed decision about which shirts to order.

In terms of fit, your best bet is the classic relaxed fit. It’s the Goldilocks of t-shirts: not too tight, not too loose, with a unisex straight cut.

Sizing is trickier, especially if you can’t simply ask people what size they need. I would love to tell you that there’s a magic formula for getting this right, but since we’re friends, I’m going to be honest with you instead.

Clothing Sizes are Bonkers

In theory, most people should be a medium, because “medium” is, by definition, supposed to be the middle. But men’s medium shirt sizes are a) different at different brands b) often smaller than the average man, who, in America, has a waist size of 40.5″, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). Some men’s medium shirts only go up to a 41″ chest circumference, and many are smaller.

The same is true for women. The CDC records the average American woman’s waist size as 38.7″, yet most mediums only go up to a maximum bust measurement of 38″. (Bust measurement is a Victorian-sounding term for chest measurement.) To make it even more fun, some size charts for women’s t-shirts equate t-shirt size to dress size — but not the same dress size, as that would be far too easy. It all gets even harder when you take unisex sizing into account.

To prove our point, below are two charts compiling the sizes of men’s and women’s t-shirts at some of the best-known t-shirt brands. (It was correct at the time I wrote this, don’t @ me.)

Men’s T-Shirt Sizes

Based on the chest measurements of shirts with a relaxed fit.

Women’s T-Shirt Sizes

Based on the measurements of shirts with a relaxed fit.

Top Tips for Ordering the Right T-Shirt Sizes

Unfurl from the fetal position, it’s OK. We’ve put together some top tips to help you order the right sizes without a functioning crystal ball:

Order a Variety of Sizes

Increase people’s chances of finding the right fit by ordering a variety of sizes. How many of each is the million dollar question. To answer it:

1) Start With a Generic Spread

Given that size charts tend to run small, a large or extra-large is closer to the real average size for men and women, so you probably need the most of these sizes. There’s no exact right spread, but it will probably start out looking something like this:

2) Adjust to Suit Your Demographic

Take that generic spread, then consider your specific demographic: do they lean into a particular size bracket?

For example, if you’re taking t-shirts to a weightlifting competition, you’ll probably need more larger sizes, whereas if you’re planning to give away t-shirts to ballerinas, you’ll probably need more smaller sizes. That’s not to say weightlifters and ballerinas don’t come in all shapes and sizes, which is why you need a range. It’s just taking into account the sizes your target audience is most likely to need, and adjusting your numbers accordingly.

If you’re buying one shirt style for everyone, look for a unisex option and increase your percentage of smaller sizes, since unisex sizes run one size larger than women’s sizes. So a unisex medium is a woman’s large, meaning anyone who would normally take a woman’s large may need a unisex medium.

Over-Order

Of course we’d say that — we’re selling you t-shirts! But hear us out, we really are trying to be helpful. Ordering a few extra of every size gives you a buffer in case your predictions were wrong. It’s better to have a few extras to hand than have to tell someone you don’t have any left in their size.

Measure Your Favorite Shirt

Look at the cut and measure the chest circumference of your favorite shirt to see how much extra fabric there is, compared to your actual chest size. This will give you an idea of how your shirts will fit before you order.

Check the Fabric Makeup

T-shirts are usually 100% cotton or a cotton blend. We’ve already mentioned spandex, aka elastane (in Europe), aka Lycra (a branded version). This is added to cotton to increase stretchiness. These t-shirts may run small on size charts, but they’ll stretch to fit.

To minimize shrinking, look for a polyester cotton blend. If you want 100% cotton, keep in mind that it can shrink by 3%-5% on the first wash. That doesn’t sound like a lot, but if a t-shirt is 40″ wide before washing, that equates to 1.2″ to 2″ — so you might want to encourage people who are unsure of their size to size up rather than down. Or you can go with a preshrunk cotton that has been treated to keep shrinkage to 1% or less.

The Bottom Line

By now you know that ordering t-shirts for other people gets tricky fast — but you also know what to look out for to make it easier. Your best bet is to go with a classic relaxed unisex fit, and if possible, give people the size chart to choose for themselves. If not, adapt your ordering for your demographic, order a variety, and add extras. And next year, offer to fight the tennis players for court time instead.